Engineering Notes Index
Winter Ventilation Checklist
This winter's early cold weather has magnified indoor air quality
concerns inside many of the state's pig confinement facilities. High
moisture levels and poor overall air quality are common complaints in
both mechanically and naturally ventilated buildings. Some of the
newer curtain sided" finishing barns are experiencing problems
because producers are still learning how to manage them during
extremely cold temperatures.
Remember, even though subzero temperatures exist outside, a pig
building still needs to have a small but continuous air exchange to
control moisture and maintain acceptable indoor air quality. This is
true whether the barn is mechanically or naturally ventilated. If the
building contains pigs under 120 lbs, you may need supplemental heat
(furnace or heater) during extreme cold weather to maintain room
temperatures greater than 60F. An alternative is to provide some type
of radiant heat (heat mats, infrared heaters, and/or a hover) which
creates a warm floor and/or a warmer microenvironment for the pigs.
This is especially beneficial in naturally ventilated facilities
where trying to add heat with a furnace is not economical.
If you have a mechanically ventilated barn (includes the newer
"curtain style" finishing facilities), use the following checklist in
preparing your unit for cold weather:
- At least one ventilation fan runs continuously and delivers
from 2 (nursery) up to 10 (finishing) cfm per pig. The fan or fans
delivering this air exchange should be single speed, or if
variable speed, the speed should never be lower than half the
fan's maximum. This improves the fan's ability to overcome wind
forces.
- The building should be as tight as possible, with air entering
only through designed air inlets rather than through undesigned
"leaks." Provide at least 1 sq. ft of inlet area for every 400 cfm
of continuous air exchange provided by the exhaust fans. These
inlets should take air from the attic or adjacent rooms or
hallways rather than directly from outside to reduce wind effects
on the inlets. Attics and hallways, in turn, need to have intakes
which will allow fresh air to enter those spaces. Remember, there
must be some way for air to enter the building if you want to
remove moisture and other air contaminants with the exhaust fans.
- Walls and ceilings need to be insulated and protected with a
vapor retarder (sheet of plastic) on the warm side of the
insulation to prevent condensation within the walls. R-values in
the mid-teens for the walls and in the mid-twenties for the
ceiling are adequate for pig buildings. Because curtain barns
cannot meet these insulation requirements for the walls, wet and
sometime frosted (during extreme cold) curtains will need to be
tolerated.
Facilities which are naturally ventilated also need to have
continuous ventilation, but need to be managed differently from
mechanically ventilated buildings. Follow this checklist if your
building is naturally ventilated (no fans) during winter:
- Make sure there is adequate outlet (ridge opening or chimneys)
area. For modified environment buildings (pig grow-finishing and
sow gestation), provide at least 1 inch of continuous ridge
opening per 10 ft of building width. Watch for frosting at the
outlets and clear excessive ice and frost build up periodically to
maintain this amount of opening.
- The building shell should be as tight as possible, making sure
that air only enters through designed air inlets. During subzero
temperatures, air should only enter on leeward (typically the
south or east) sides of naturally ventilated buildings.
Temperature controlled curtains or vents are the most common
inlets. However, curtains or vents must be adjusted to provide a
small but permanent opening so that even though the room
temperature is below the setpoint, some air is continuously moving
through the building. If this is not done and there are few cracks
or leaks in the barn, insufficient air exchange will result in
high humidity and poor air quality. Also, without this minimum
amount of sidewall inlet area in a naturally ventilated barn, air
often enters the ridge or outlet at one end of the barn and exits
at the other end creating a reverse or downward air flow plus a
large temperature variation down the length of the building.
- A naturally ventilated pig barn also needs to be insulated,
especially on the underside of the roof, to prevent condensation
and frosting. R-values of at least 6 to 8 should be provided under
the roof or in the sloping ceiling.
In summary, during extremely cold conditions, a minimum and
continuous (no timer controlled fans) air exchange needs to be
provided in pig buildings to control moisture and maintain minimum
indoor air quality. This is true for both mechanically and naturally
ventilated structures. Unfortunately, this air exchange rate during
subzero outside temperatures, will result in lower room temperatures
for pigs under 120 lbs. How cold the room gets will depend on the
size of pigs, ventilation rate, and insulation level. Supplemental
heat can be added to maintain the room temperature. Or radiant heat
or hovers can be incorporated into pens to create a warmer
microenvironment for the pigs, especially in naturally ventilated
barns.
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